I always set the valves this way. You turn the engine till one valve opens and that is when you set the closed valve. That way your 1000% sure the valve your setting is in fact closed. The compression release as I understand it open a valve just a little bit as it hits TDC so the engine can spin over fast. Works sort of like the petcocks on the older JD 2 cylinder tractor but instead of the person opening and closing them the engine if built to do it. I have 2 or 3 of those engines laying around on the place in riding lawn mowers I have. Those engines also like to blow the head gasket in such a way as to dump oil into the cylinders and then you have a smoke bomb of an engine. I have one that blew that gasket and you could start it up but if you stepped away from it you could not see if due to all the smoke
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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