Don't have any 4x5s (886# if comparable 5x6 weighs in at 1600). I do have some 4x6's that will easily come in at 1280# and I can lift (rear 3 pt system) and transport them with my '63 Ford 2000D (30 hp, weighing in at around 3500#) with no front end weights......however the front end is light, still steerable but light. Having your brake levers separated and brakes in good working order a plus.
Years ago I had a '74 International 464 (45 hp) gasser ant thought I was going to lift a 5x6. Front end came right off the ground before I even got started in the attempt to lift. Solution was 4 ea, 2' railroad "siding rails" on a frame I made out front.
I have hauled 5x6's with my Ford also but for that I made a front bracket and loaded 6 solid concrete blocks (6x8x12) in the bracket which was plenty to keep the wheels on the ground.
The problem is not the 3 pt lift capacity, it's keeping the front wheels on the ground.
My guess is that a 30 hp will be plenty. If not you can always add weight to the front end. 30 hp should get the forks up high enough off the ground to transport that bale over varying terrain without bottoming out like would happen on a low hp tractor with a 3 pt that rides close to the ground.......like my Brabson 2400 which weighs in at around 1800 and the rear axle is only 16# off the ground.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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