Concrete is a whole system. Not just the rebar. Start with proper compaction of the soil underneath. If you are on decent hardpack then worry about fill. Use the right kind of fill, and compact that. Your rebar spec sounds fine, but the mix of concrete you get will determine how long it lasts. For just car support, 3500PSI pea gravel will do the job. HOWEVER - almost all the time when you order small batch load of concrete from the local vendor, you are not getting actual 3500PSI. You are getting something less. Which means you need to order 4000PSI and tell the vendor you are going to do a slump test on it(google concrete slump test). This will let your concrete vendor know not to cheap out on the cement in the mix.
I'm not a concrete expert, but I've done enough work to know that I've gotten a bad batch a few times, and it really irritates me. My boat ramp was 5000PSI and I had to send one load back. It was far too wet, and way to loose. They don't like that but too bad, I'm not paying for junk that will split after 4 years.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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