My 1972 300B started doing the same as your's and I was around a 1/2 mile from home. As already mentioned, usually you can just remove the check-ball from the fuel exit fitting as a temp fix. I did that to mine and I did not even make it that 1/2 mile. Big enough pieces of that failed ring got stuck in my fuel return-line boots on top of the injectors. So I just left the return line unhooked, and drove it home with fuel dribbling on the ground.
Note that when you fix it - you can put a new plastic ring in it for $20 in parts. Or - eliminate it forever with an upgrade for an extra $50 in parts.
Several cars and trucks had that same problem in the 70s to mid 80s. In 1985, it was eliminated in new pumps for highway vehicles. If you were to have a pre-85 Ford or Chevy pump fixed - that ring gets eliminated automatically.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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