Posted by Steve@Advance on April 10, 2018 at 05:32:52 from (24.182.105.179):
In Reply to: 601 Workmaster posted by Cage55 on April 09, 2018 at 23:54:40:
Like others said, check the points, point gap. Check for wear in the distributor shaft bushing. It must have very little side play in order for the points to stay set. Also check the centrifugal advance, it should turn freely a few degrees and spring back. If it is stuck, the distributor will need to come apart to get it freed up and lubricated.
There is a drain plug in the carb bowl. With the engine off, fuel valve open, pull the plug, catch the flow in a clean glass. It should flow a full stream until the bowl empties down, then slow to a trickle, but not to a drip or stop. If it does not continue to flow, there is a restriction in the fuel supply. Look at what was caught in the glass. If it is contaminate with rust, trash, or water, the same will be in the carb. The tank will need to be cleaned, line and sediment bowl cleaned, carb cleaned.
Once everything is cleaned and back together, and the air cleaner serviced, choke is open fully, you may need to adjust the main jet. With the engine up to operating temperature, adjust the idle mix, at slow idle, to get the smoothest idle. Then adjust the main. To adjust, have the engine idling, then suddenly open the throttle. It should take sudden throttle without hesitation. If it hesitates, back the main screw out 1/4 turn, try again. Fine tune it until it takes throttle without hesitation. A single puff of black smoke is a good indicator.
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo filesizes should be less than 300K and Videos, less than 2MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
