Hopefully, when they replaced the tank, they didn't get all the air out. Once the air purged, the level dropped, now it is full and no more problems.
Common places to leak are the plastic adapters where the heater hoses go to the heater core. If they have not been replaced, they are cooked hard and ready to fail. Better to replace them now than on the side of the road!
Also look at the radiator, the front of the tank directly in front of where the upper hose connects. That is a heat concentration area, prone to crack. Look for discoloration from coolant running down. Stop leak will not fix it.
Look at the front of the heads, especially the left side. Known to leak externally. Hard to see, usually shows as a drip on the floor. Stop leak will "sometimes" fix it.
Same with the water pump. If it's leaking, look for coolant dripping from behind the pulley. Sometimes they will leak then stop, then leak again. If you do replace the pump, spend the extra for a GM pump, do it once.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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