Your wording is a little confusing about what you have tried the ...set in 3rd.. is what I don’t understand so I am not sure if you had the tractor out in motion. As others have said get it out in the open and make sure you remember to give some room to stop because your going to have to shut off the engine to stop. Let it idle a bit so the engine is somewhat at operating temp. Then shut it off place it in 2nd gear and start the engine. Rev the engine up and get moving. Then deaccelerate and shift to third. Now get up to 3/4 throttle then start rocking the throttle as you say up and down to create sort of a ...bucking bronco... motion. All through these steps the clutch should be held or blocked down. Applying some brake as you raise the engine rpm may be helpful but let off them when you are deaccelerating the engine. I really don’t see what stepping on one brake at a time as Mike suggested would add to the outcome of this other than adding to the challenge of controlling the tractor. I realize it worked for him but I suspect the clutch would have came loose just as well if he had used both brakes. Good luck and above all be safe.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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