Heat the part you want to drill, it will anneal it and actually soften it. Been a long time, can't remember the temperature range anymore. I welded a new spade nose cutting edge in a Cat 994 quarry bucket. This was a 22 yard bucket that was about 18 feet wide. That cutting edge was about 18" wide at the ends and about 3 feet wide in the center where the spade nose was, and about 4" thick. It did not have any of the holes drilled in it for all of the bolt on wear plates used in quarry use. Seems like I had to drill around 50 or 60 1-1/8" holes all the way through that cutting edge, and any of you that have had to drill, cut, or weld a -quality- cutting edge know what I'm talking about. Anyhow, after marking where all of the holes needed to be, I had to heat them using an infrared thermometer and a heat crayon. Took a little while, but I figured it out for how long and hot I had to heat both sides of the cutting edge and then how long I had to let it set before the center of the edge was the temp I needed it to be to anneal it. Before doing this, the Hougen bits would hardly scratch it. After annealing it, well, I won't say it cut like butter, but they actually drilled out pretty nice.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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