Did you see any reason for the ex valve to loosen?
If the jamb nut was left loose, that is an obvious and correctable reason. But if the adjustment was still where it was set, and there was a major change in the lash setting, the change had to come from somewhere.
A bent pushrod is easy to determine, just spin it and watch for wobble.
Also check for a broken valve spring, or a sticking valve.
Another cause though can be a valve seat loose and falling out, holding the valve down. Sometimes they will go back in place temporarily then come out again.
Doing a compression test will show some loss if the seat is loose, total loss if it comes out.
As Janicholson said, check the distributor bushing, point condition and gap. Check for spark quality at the plugs.
There is a drain plug in the bottom of the carb. With the engine off, fuel valve open, pull the plug and catch the gas in a clean glass. The flow should be a solid stream, slow to a trickle as the bowl empties down, but continue to flow as a trickle, not stop or slow to a drip. Look at what was caught, check for water or trash. If contaminated, the tank may need to be cleaned, whatever was in the glass will also be in the carb.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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