I've also had good success with Bars Leak products. Used to use one that was a black liquid with semi-solid pellets, not sure they still offer that, but it was my favorite.
A couple things that need to happen for it to be successful though.
The leak needs to be low enough it is below the liquid level line. A leak in the top tank, above the coolant level will not seal.
And there needs to be some means of the system to build pressure and come up to operating temperature when the stop leak is put in. A good cap and thermostat (if equipped) will help. If this is a non pressurized system, unless you can find a way to put a couple pounds pressure on it, the odds are not good.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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