TX Jim: All square balers require the chains that drive the knotters and stuffer arms to be a set number of links long. I know you worked on wire tie balers more than twine and I have never worked on a wire tie baler. So they might be different.
Lets assume the chain in question has 25 links. So you take out one link and put in a half link so now the chain is 24 links long. The chain is now 4% shorter. Now this chain is running between two sprockets that have to stay in time, like the stuffer arms in a JD 24T or the stuffer bar on a NH 276. With the shorter chain running between the sprockets they will get 4% out of time every full revolution of the chain. Yes the pull side will always stay the same. It is the slack side that causes the trouble. Most chains that have to stay in time have plenty of slack in them for an adjuster to take up. So with the chain being one link shorter the sprockets will slowly get out of time because of the ratio of the pull side compared to the slack side has to match the ratio between the two sprockets. Think about this and it will come to you.
I have seen lots of guys take links out of the chains on balers and damage the needles, knotters and feeders arms/racks.
Nh balers use a long chain to drive the knotters where JD uses a drive shaft and gear box. That long chain has to be the correct length or the plunger with hit the needles when it gets out of time.
A JD balers will do the same thing. If you put a chain too long or short on the knotter drive in a 14T baler it will get out of time in less than a minute or two and hit the plunger stop or needles.
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