You will get rusted pans and side panels because the rubber mats are not take out and the floor cleaned under them. When I run into this problem I do several different things.
If the tractor is just going to be a beater/work tractor, I just clean it up with a wire brush on a 4 inch grinder. If the holes are not too bad just fiberglass and mesh. If they are worst I cover with sheet steel and spot weld it in. In these kind of "fixes: I seal between the two pieces of metal with silicone caulk.
If the tractor is going to be rebuilt/painted, I remove all the rear/side windows. I then take both doors off. I remove the seat. I scrap all the old foam interior out I can get. then I tape/paper over the inside and out of the remaining windows. The then sand blast the inside and out of the lower cab. Usually up to the bottom of the fenders. I then cut out all the bad metal. I weld in new sections. Grind/fit so they look like new. Then prime and paint. New interior/seat and the cab is good other than repairing the AC.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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