Well if you can weld thinner sheet steel it is not hard to do. As for sealing it, that depends on your end use. What I have started doing to my "working" tractors is to clean the lower floor and pan area then roll on pickup bed liner material. This area usually rust form the inside out because of dirt/manure/water/snow. So if you seal this away from the metal it will last a long time. The areas under the seat usually get nasty from the interior being shot and then windows/doors left open to soak everything down. Then the accumulated dirt and old foam just hold the moisture and dirt there to rust the steel away.
Best way to prevent your cab from rusting is to keep it cleaned out. This does not mean waxed and spit shined. LOL Take the mat out every now and then and sweep/blow the dirt out of the cab. Keep the doors and windows shut. Keep an eye out for water leaks if the tractor sets out side much. One the out side try to stay out of road salt if you can. If you run on the road then flush/wash to outside off when you can. Letting the dirt/salt lay under the cab will rot it out faster.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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