Well if you can weld thinner sheet steel it is not hard to do. As for sealing it, that depends on your end use. What I have started doing to my "working" tractors is to clean the lower floor and pan area then roll on pickup bed liner material. This area usually rust form the inside out because of dirt/manure/water/snow. So if you seal this away from the metal it will last a long time. The areas under the seat usually get nasty from the interior being shot and then windows/doors left open to soak everything down. Then the accumulated dirt and old foam just hold the moisture and dirt there to rust the steel away.
Best way to prevent your cab from rusting is to keep it cleaned out. This does not mean waxed and spit shined. LOL Take the mat out every now and then and sweep/blow the dirt out of the cab. Keep the doors and windows shut. Keep an eye out for water leaks if the tractor sets out side much. One the out side try to stay out of road salt if you can. If you run on the road then flush/wash to outside off when you can. Letting the dirt/salt lay under the cab will rot it out faster.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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