As an Electricity/Electronics Professor I will explain it like this: First an Amp gauge shows amount and direction of electron flow. Electrons are what come out of a battery negative and into the battery positive when being used to start an engine, or run the lights while the engine is stopped. (This is not related to positive or negative ground, a separate issue.) The reason the electrons move out of the battery is voltage. The 12v battery fully stuffed with electrons, will show 12.6 volts. When amp gauges were used (most of our old equipment, and some new) charging systems were using generators. Generators are speed sensitive, and when at idle, do not do very well. Generators have voltage regulators that are mediocre compared with the transistor and electronic controls now exclusively used for that control. Farmers (and city folks as well could see an amp gauge and know Charge is good discharge is bad. Many early control systems had the operator manually switch to generator output based on the amp gauge, and time at speed. A volt meter on the other hand is less clearly interpreted. Charging should be done at about 14.2 volts. This pushes electrons back into the battery filling it up to capacity. As charge rate changes with charging on a generator system, an operator looking at a volt meter will have much more to think about between 12.6 and 14.2 as to whether the battery is getting charged. With an alternator, and electronic regulation, the voltage when charging will be far more constant and thus show either 14.2 or so, or 12.6 or less if the engine is off, or the alternator based system has failed. Generally new equipment has been created with neither one. This is because operators (in 99.99% of the cases) have no clue what either gauge means at all. Amp gauges are like an ATM Either you are depositing (good) or withdrawing (bad) a volt meter just tell you how much you have on hand. I hope this helps a bit. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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