Ok, for all you 'experts' concern about running all the current up to the dash, into the ammeter and back to the loads, this is a fallacy. The only heavy current for the ammeter needed is the known resistance shunt bar. The tiny wires for the EMF sensing the current can be in the dash, while the shunt bar is anywhere you want.
The best setup would be the shunt bar just in front of the +batt terminal. With the key off, and circuit 30 and 15 not powered, the shunt bar would have no current flow, so no EMF produced across it to deflect the 'ammeter' in the dash. When the key is on, and the 30 bus is energized, there would be a very slight deflection to negative on the ammeter, showing the key loaded currents. AFter the engine is running, and the gen/alt is charging, it will show a slight + indication as the batt is charged.
So, there's no need for all that heavy wiring, just the wire from the batt to the loads needs to pass through the shunt which could be mounted anywhere, preferably near the batt. The current to drive the 'ammeter' remotely is in the microamps.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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