As in the engine refuses to slow down, even with the idle stop screw backed out, and hand holding the throttle shut?
If so, sounds like the throttle plate may have come loose from the throttle shaft, or it was removed and incorrectly installed. The plate must be centered on the shaft and in the bore before the screws are tightened. There is also a beveled edge that must be installed so it seals off the edges in the carb bore. It will only fit properly one direction. Also a worn throttle shaft or shaft bushings will cause poor idle control, and vacuum leak around the shaft.
If the idle can be slowed by hand, but revs back up when released, throttle cable and the governor adjustment. The governor should be able to push the throttle closed with slack in the spring and the engine running.
If you're saying the engine dies when trying to get it to idle, that could be the idle circuit clogged or sucking air between the top cover and the bowl. The idle fuel is drawn up from the main well through a small passage beside the venturi bore. If the gasket doesn't seal at that hole, it won't idle. Also low compression will cause dying and poor performance at low RPM.
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Today's Featured Article - Usin Your Implements: Bucket Loader - by Curtis Von Fange. Introduction: Dad was raised during the depression years of the thirties. As a kid he worked part time on a farm in Kansas doing many of the manual chores. Some of the more successful farmers of that day had a new time saving device called a tractor. It increased the farm productivity and, in general, made life easier because more work could be done with this 'mechanical beast'. My dad dreamed that some day he would have his own tractor with every implement he could get. When he rea
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