I will second just installing load bushing with Loctite 680 retaining compound. I only have had to have two repaired in 40 plus years of working on them. Both of those had the load control shaft break and then pivot out of the housing. So they damaged the housing. Normal wear is usually is just over sized fairly uniform around the bushing.
The key to them not leaking again is to make sure the draft yoke is shimmed tight. You want zero side to side movement. I usually flatten the sides of the housing with an angle grinder. They get groves worn in them. Then you can get them shimmed to where they only move forward and back. This is how the bushing and seals where made to work. If there is side play the shaft works back and froth and eats the seals.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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