If you are going to connect it up as a straight 24 Volt system with the negative side connected to the chassis you would simply wire it up like you would a 12 Volt system, only difference being you will connect the two 12 Volt batteries in SERIES, making 24 Volts.
Be aware that with the full 24 Volts above chassis ground, there'll be some pretty nasty sparks, arcs, or melting, if anything ever shorts or you bridge a tool, a (finger) ring, or a watchband between the 24 Volts and the chassis.
It would have been easy to keep the original (+)12 (-)12 system, and that's what I would have done, but if this is your choice, it's easy to do.
If you want an Ammeter, connect it into the charging wire from the alternator.
Be SURE you understand the connections at the starter and solenoid and BE CAREFUL, don't cause shorts as previously mentioned and wear eye and face protection when working around the batteries. What is this, a 40 Amp alternator... use 10 gauge or even 12 gauge wire for the alternator wiring, it's a good idea to include a fusible link or fuse of reasonable size (based on alternator output rating) to protect the alternator wiring from short circuits.
If the connections at the starter appear different or you are unsure, post a photo of that area.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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