A simple test, remove the drain plug, install a barb fitting, push on a piece of clear vinyl tubing. Turn the open end of the tube up above the carb. Turn on the fuel valve and watch the level rise in the tube. The level in the tube will be the level in the bowl. I'm guessing the level should be about 3/4-1/2" below the top of the bowl.
Has any carb work improved the running? Possibly there is another problem. If there is fuel in the bowl, and the main jet is open, the carb should at least function, maybe not run good, but enough to make further adjustments.
The revving could indicate a major vacuum leak. Another test, remove the coil wire from the distributor and ground it. Open the throttle, hold your hand tightly against the air horn of the carb. Have an assistant crank the engine through. You should feel a strong, steady vacuum against your hand, and your hand will be wet with gas.
If good vacuum and no gas, indicates clogged main circuit or no fuel in the bowl.
If no vacuum, or weak vacuum, indicates a vacuum leak or valve problems. If no vacuum leak, run a compression test, look the valve train over for stuck valves, bent push rods, broken springs.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Generators - by Chris Pratt. As a companion to the articles on three-brush and two-brush generators, it seemed fitting that we should provide our readers with a description of how a generator works in lay terms. The difficulty with all those "theory of operation" texts is that they border on principles of electricity or physics and such. Since I know nothing of either, you will have to put up with looking at the common sense side of how generators work which means we "
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