A simple test, remove the drain plug, install a barb fitting, push on a piece of clear vinyl tubing. Turn the open end of the tube up above the carb. Turn on the fuel valve and watch the level rise in the tube. The level in the tube will be the level in the bowl. I'm guessing the level should be about 3/4-1/2" below the top of the bowl.
Has any carb work improved the running? Possibly there is another problem. If there is fuel in the bowl, and the main jet is open, the carb should at least function, maybe not run good, but enough to make further adjustments.
The revving could indicate a major vacuum leak. Another test, remove the coil wire from the distributor and ground it. Open the throttle, hold your hand tightly against the air horn of the carb. Have an assistant crank the engine through. You should feel a strong, steady vacuum against your hand, and your hand will be wet with gas.
If good vacuum and no gas, indicates clogged main circuit or no fuel in the bowl.
If no vacuum, or weak vacuum, indicates a vacuum leak or valve problems. If no vacuum leak, run a compression test, look the valve train over for stuck valves, bent push rods, broken springs.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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