Everything has about been covered. Something easy to check, be sure the oil is not contaminated with gas. That can happen gradually if running rich, or it can flood the engine if the fuel valve is left on when stored.
Like said, those don't need much oil pressure. Being a flat head, there is no need for high pressure, no rocker arms to oil.
If you can get any pressure at all at warm idle, and the pressure will come up to 10-15 revved up, and there are no new noises, like deep knocking under load or rattles when coasting down, it will go a long time.
Gradual pressure loss is normal for a well worn engine. But sudden loss, or total loss, or fluctuating pressure, is a sign that something has changed.
One thing that will not increase idle pressure is stretching, shimming, or putting a stronger spring in the relief valve. As long as the relief valve is seating fully, it only effects high speed oil pressure.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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