Yes, there were 12V generators but that doesn't mean because the guy you bought it from said so it has one. If you want to know for sure, test it or take it to your trusty local starter/alternator shop and they can tell you for sure, usually. ALL original FORD vehicles had a 6-VOLT/POSITIVE GROUND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. 12V generators popped up later and 12V "conversions" became 'fashionable'. When the alternator appeared on the scene, 12V switch overs were done more often, and still continued today. Whether 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GND, if the WIRING isn't correct, there will be issues. 99.98% of all non-starting/non-running issues are due to poor/incorrect wiring jobs. There's about 6 ways to do a 12V conversion correctly and a hundred and six ways to do one incorrectly. One needs to only read the daily posts on the Ford boards to find at least one person with a non-starting tractor and it is usually because he or someone else tried to "convert" to 12-Volts. I don't condemn 12 Volts, I just have never had a need to convert my early 9N and early 8N over from original 6V/POS GND. If you have a 12V battery and your generator is a 12V unit, yank it and hang on to it as novelty. Then get a conversion kit with an alternator and of all things wire it correctly. Just my advice...
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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