You'll need to do some diagnostics to isolate the problem.
A shop manual will walk you through the process, you'll need a gauge and some miscellaneous fittings.
Likely it will be either the pump loosing pressure, or the internal seals bypassing in the cylinder.
A simple test, if you want to risk it, with the system up to temperature, turn the wheel and listen for the pump to load. It should slow the engine, make the hose jump when the steering is against the end of it's travel.
To test the pump, engine at idle, with a rag around the pressure hose, crimp the hose shut with Vice Grips. (I know, not good for the hose, so proceed with caution at your discretion). Be sure you are on the pressure hose! Listen for the pump to load. If it loads harder, may even near kill the engine, the pump is good and the cylinder seals are bypassing.
If it loads the same, makes little difference, the pump is not making pressure. Could be the relief valve or worn pump.
Still better to follow the proper procedure though. Kids don't try this at home!
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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