I would cut out the bad, cut it far enough away that the metal is up to full thickness, away from the rust.
Use a 4" grinder with a cut off wheel, make straight, square cuts. Polish away any surface rust or paint. Then make a cardboard pattern, transfer to the new piece of steel.
Turn the welder down low enough so not to blow through, clamp the piece in place and tack. Make any corrections on position, then start stitching it in. Go place to place to avoid heat distortion, playing connect the dots with the welds until it's all one weld. If it tries to burn through or there are wide gaps, you can use a back up piece of aluminum, brass, copper as a heat sink. The weld will puddle against it without sticking.
Then grind it down, fix any holes or low spots. I like to use the flap disc type grinding wheels. They are more expensive, but give a much better finish.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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