I would cut out the bad, cut it far enough away that the metal is up to full thickness, away from the rust.
Use a 4" grinder with a cut off wheel, make straight, square cuts. Polish away any surface rust or paint. Then make a cardboard pattern, transfer to the new piece of steel.
Turn the welder down low enough so not to blow through, clamp the piece in place and tack. Make any corrections on position, then start stitching it in. Go place to place to avoid heat distortion, playing connect the dots with the welds until it's all one weld. If it tries to burn through or there are wide gaps, you can use a back up piece of aluminum, brass, copper as a heat sink. The weld will puddle against it without sticking.
Then grind it down, fix any holes or low spots. I like to use the flap disc type grinding wheels. They are more expensive, but give a much better finish.
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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