I'm sure some people will be able to keep the saw going for a good long while. But those are going to be people that aren't leaning the saw out and don't have any seals going and they aren't using the ethanol fuels we get here. The newer oils are great, don't get me wrong. But you take an old saw with some air leaks and maybe a piston that's already got a little scoring and then lean it out so it "screams" like a modern saw and it WILL die. It's just a matter of time. The materials and clearances from the old days are different than today. I will put my trust in using a good quality oil mixed at about 35 or 40-1 with fresh, NON-ETHANOL gas. I will set the carb erring slightly to the rich side even if it costs me a couple rpm and I'll try to keep the saw in the best shape I can. I've got saws from the 1960s that have survived rather well using this method. I have seen and owned too many saws that people trashed using decent oils, but mixed way too lean and that someone tweaked the carb on to run as fast as possible wide open with no load. That is a recipe for disaster.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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