Angle your blade so the tha tailings roll off the blade to the center. Don't cut too deep at one pass as you want to cut the hills and fill the valleys, in other words, not full down on the lift arm.
Do this in both directions for your width of the driveway. Once you think you have enough tailings to spread flip your blade around for the backblade and go down the pile of tailings you made the length of the driveway. Repeat as necessary to work it smooth.
It is better if you have a slight crown in the center so water runs to the edges. If you try to cut to much the blade will "skip" making it bumpy, that up and down of cutting then not cutting.
If there's any big rocks or stuff in it the blade will skip, doing the same thing. Raise the blade just enough to barely cut for several passes until you get the tailing pile in the center of the drive for back blading.
If you can get some road bond (gravel and rock dust) to top it with it will likely hold. The rock fines will help it bond together.
At the end, walk it with the tractor tires though this won't help compact much it does help some. It takes a while to do all this.
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Today's Featured Article - Using Your Tractor: Creating a Seed Bed - by Chris Pratt. When I bought my first old tractor, I had only one idea in mind. It wasn't the preservation of old iron since at that time, I was unaware that people even did this. It wasn't to show off my restoration skills (though I had tried my hand at a couple of old motorcycles in my teens and if I recall correctly, those old motorcycles were sold in boxes about one quarter finished). It wasn't to relive memories of Grampa, Dad or myself out on the back 40 nursing the Farmall pulling too many b
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