I have a 97 F350 with the same 351W and well over 200K on it. Might use a quart every 3K. I think those saying a truck of that vintage and mileage needs a new engine are nuts. I'd try the regular dino oil as other suggest, get the PC valve checked and I'd park it on a real clean spot of pavement, or put a sacrificial sheet under it, and check it for leaks while running. Let it idle, rev it up, idle some more, get it nice and warm. I had a car one time had a tiny pinhole in the oil pressure sender. Didn't see any smoke but I changed everything from the valve cover gaskets to the rear main seal trying to stop that leak. had another car the oil filter actually rusted through. Point is, don't assume the engine is shot if you aren't seeing smoke from the exhaust. I've owned cars that burned a quart every 100 miles and trust me, you'd see the smoke!
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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