I will ad my two cents: Tractor prices vary widely. Fords, JD and IH seem overpriced in my area. I needed a tractor to work my big garden (1 acre?) and I wanted the cheapest thing I could buy with some sort of lift on it. I have to back down the rows and work in close corners so turning around with a pull implement doesn't work for me. I had an Allis CA which was quite the tractor in its day. It still probably has the most power for its size, but the snap couple system is it's own thing and those snap couple implements go high. I then bought a VAC case tractor. It is very lo tech compared to the Allis, but it is a better tractor for me and pretty easy to work on. They made lots of them (150000) and the later ones have the eagle hitch which works with most 3pt implements. In my area, these are the absolutely low dollar tractors for anything with a lift. Not super powerful, but enough for small farms. The Case guys on the Case page are experts, friendly and helpful. If you think you might like to do tractor rides with your tractor, the later ones with 34" wheels are the best. They are too fast for close in work though and the 28" wheels make a slower more useful tractor. The penalties of only having 4 gears. Never had a VAC till last year and I love it and love working on it. A lot simpler than the Allis.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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