I have bought 2 8n tractors for under 800 non running. got them both running and sold them. gained a lot of experience and basically got my money back for them. from my experience I would say do not buy an 8n tractor. would buy a international/farm all wide front 300-340-404 first then a ford 660 and up with a 5 speed. preferably with a working power steering. do your home work on the cost of tires, tune up kits, new carburetors, etc. you need to think about how much cost you think you will have in it and can you get your money back out of it. buying a non running engine can be awful costly. 3pt with live power is a must. also if you find a tractor make a deal with the seller to deliver it to your house. most likely they already have a trailer and if not to far away probably would just deliver for you. never hurts to ask. also ask if they have any manuals as there a must to have. remember there are a lot of good folks out there that will be honest in there description but there is also some that would say they had a pigeon. don't be afraid to walk away because once you buy it its yours. what ever you buy there will always be some people on here that will help you. a lot of good folks on here. good luck on your purchase. norm
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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