I had my 1996 F-250 rust-proofed by AUTO-ARMOR, they use two different products, first is a rubbery type of black tar coating on the frame, fender liners, most parts on the ubderside, stuff stays pliable, resists chipping off. Second coating is a tough waxy coating that goes on all painted underside sheet metal. I ordered out my '96 F-250, had it Auto-Armored a day after it was dropped off at dealership, they did a great job, truck has one small bubbled spot on right rear wheel well after 22 Wisconsin winters, 300,000+ miles, first ten -11 years as my daily driver. And the bright red paint still looks brand new and I only rubbed on the Auto Armor paint rejuvinator 2-3 timess in the first 5 years I owned it. They applied a paint protectant that had Teflon in it, about 15 years ago I parked next to a similar year bright red truck that didn't have any Auto Armor on it, terribly faded dingy chalky paint. They also have a fabric protectant with Scotch-Gard that works great too.
Most dealer undercoating is worse than nothing, I've used Rusty Jones and Ziebart, couple others with a rusty car or truck in less than 10 years, ANY rust proofing that requires annual inspections is a SCAM, betting you will forget and void the warrantee. That's not the case with Auto Armor. Most car dealers advertise rust proofing "Just as good as Auto Armor", What does THAT tell you?
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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