I had my 1996 F-250 rust-proofed by AUTO-ARMOR, they use two different products, first is a rubbery type of black tar coating on the frame, fender liners, most parts on the ubderside, stuff stays pliable, resists chipping off. Second coating is a tough waxy coating that goes on all painted underside sheet metal. I ordered out my '96 F-250, had it Auto-Armored a day after it was dropped off at dealership, they did a great job, truck has one small bubbled spot on right rear wheel well after 22 Wisconsin winters, 300,000+ miles, first ten -11 years as my daily driver. And the bright red paint still looks brand new and I only rubbed on the Auto Armor paint rejuvinator 2-3 timess in the first 5 years I owned it. They applied a paint protectant that had Teflon in it, about 15 years ago I parked next to a similar year bright red truck that didn't have any Auto Armor on it, terribly faded dingy chalky paint. They also have a fabric protectant with Scotch-Gard that works great too.
Most dealer undercoating is worse than nothing, I've used Rusty Jones and Ziebart, couple others with a rusty car or truck in less than 10 years, ANY rust proofing that requires annual inspections is a SCAM, betting you will forget and void the warrantee. That's not the case with Auto Armor. Most car dealers advertise rust proofing "Just as good as Auto Armor", What does THAT tell you?
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - Tractor Engine Repair - by Teri Burkholder. One of the great things about working on a tractor engine with your other half is that you know what he is thinking of at all times and can anticipate his every move and his next thought of what he will do. With Ben, anyway, I can tell! He'll be busy working and I’m handing him tools and he says, "give me that..." and I’ve already got it in his hand or "hand me that....."and I’ve got the portable light right where he needed it placed to see. "Run in the house and get me a...."as I open th
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