Getting into an engine that you have no history on is always an unfolding mystery.
An engine that was running, then stored, and now will not turn is "stuck". It is stuck because moisture or coolant has rusted the rings to the cylinder walls.
An engine that was running and locked up, is "seized" or "locked up". That is usually a worse case for real damage, as in something in the bottom end dies from lack of lubrication, or something came loose, like a connecting rod, and jammed the rotation of the crank, and possibly damaged other components.
If it is just stuck, good chance it can be saved. The 8N engine has sleeves, so even if the cylinder bore is rust pitted, the sleeves can be replaced at a reasonable cost.
Also take in consideration what it will be used for. Since this is your personal property, you are free to make the decisions about how well and long you want this to run considering what you want to pay. If it will be for light use, parades, tractor shows, you may want to, and can somewhat get by, with a less than perfect engine rebuild.
Once you get in there, and lay it all out, take some measurements, get some advise from your shop manual, the machine shop, and what you can gather from online videos and forums, then you can make a decision based on need, use, and budget.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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