Well since you have dug deep into and engine lets start with ok try the snake oil treatment , now here you will get 10000 ideas from many people . Some will tell you P B Blasters is the only way to go , some will tell you Kernol is the way to go , some will tell you acetone and ATF , me i will tell you that Zep is good stuff , but hard to find and expensive . But getting down to the nitty gritty is to just pull the head and look BEFORE you do anything . See what your dealing with first . No matter the degree of STUCK your dealing with rust . That rust is abrasive and course , even if you get it to turn that rust can sick the rigs harder then before , it can grind away at the sleeves . Your engine more then likely has sleeves in it those are a thin wall sleeve and have to be pulled with a puller and then pressed in , this is the best way . Some will drive them in and this can be done but you stand a chance of cracking it , you can freeze the sleeves and you can get them to go in but ya have to be fast and not touch them with anything warm or they will expand fast and can stick going in . Myself if i am not willing to spend a lot of money i will remove the head first and look over what i am dealing with , If i have one that is lightly stuck i will spray some Zep around the top of the piston and walk away then come back and do it again in a while and do this several times letting it soak in , then i used and oak block that fits in the hole and give it a rap or two with my favort frustration tool . and spray it again and let it soak some more . and repete If it moves down providing that it is not stuck at the vary bottom of the stroke that's great BUT 4 cylinder engines always seam to stop with two pistons at the top and two at the vary bottom . My next course of action it to use a deglazing hone with Course stones and run it on slow RPM's along with my Zep and knock the rust off the walls and get them smoothed up then clean out the best i can and them make my attach from the bottom by removing the affected rod cap and usen and oak block attempt to drive the piston up along with adding a Little more joy juice . . Once it moves then get it out all the way and thenlook over the walls and see if you have pitting . Pitting is back but rust stains may clean up usen a bottle brush hone . Also check for a ridge at the top of the piston ring travel , if it has a ridge that you can catch with your finger nail this needs to be removed with a ridge reamer if not it is posable the top ring will catch and it will either break or you may end up bring the sleeve out . . Now by no means am i the guru of Fords but i have over the years worked on a few . get yourself and I T manual and read it , is it the best manual out there no but it will help . when i rebuilt a 8 N i was lucky to the fact that the old Local Ford dealer lent me the sleeve puller and instillation tool to install the new sleeves , but t.o have to buy the valve setting tools
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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