Re: How to remove old paint from tractor and re-paint?

Posted by farmallboy15 on December 31, 2018 at 14:00:26 from (24.33.230.23):

In Reply to: How to remove old paint from tractor and re-paint? posted by JohnV2000 on December 30, 2018 at 17:02:05:

Prep is the most important part of painting. All you need is for the surface to be CLEAN and free of material that will flake off. I prefer to wire wheel the chassis using an angle grinder. The sheetmetal would be best to have sandblasted but you could still wire wheel and sand, its just more work. Note how I said "have" sandblasted. I would pay the $100 to have someone else do it... Sandblasting and sanding really sucks... As far as degreasing goes. I use purple power or super clean. Let it soak and power wash off. This will take a couple iterations. I usually knock off as much I can with everything assembled then start taking components off until it is just a rolling chassis. From there, roll it out of the shop and wash again. After you have it on jack stands just use brake cleaner to cut any grease that is still hanging around.

I would agree with the other comments. Give it a good degrease then start finding and fixing whatever problems it has. Then when you go to the finish strip down for paint, replace any other cosmetic components. After the first degrease and run you will start to find seals and gaskets that leak. Better to find them before you paint than after.

There is also a book out there on painting tractors, I think at tractor supply. It really helped when I started out. I would also recommend spending the $ and getting a good set of paint guns (I bought devlibriss ~$150). I started out with northern tool guns which were okay but they are not even in the same ballpark as a couple entry level automotive guns.

As far as paint products go: I use epoxy primer exclusively (summit racing has good stuff at a reasonable price) (epoxy is also pretty compatible with any paint you ever spray), Paint, I like the Case IH brand with hardener and reducer mixed to the proper ratio. A gallon of primer and paint will be more than enough. For sheetmetal you will probably want a surfacer (sandable primer) You will probably need to go to a local autobody supply for this. Also, buy the body filler from the supply house (get "RAGE") not the bondo crap from autozone. This stuff sands a lot easier... Lastly, make sure you have clean, DRY air going to your gun.

I have painted a few Farmalls…

Replies:

Add a Reply! You must be Logged In to Post Name: E-Mail: Subject: Comments: Optional Link URL: Link Title: Optional Image URL: Optional Video Title: Optional Video Embed: Advanced Posting Options Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks. No political comments, hate speech or bigotry of any kind will be tolerated. Violations will be removed and posting privileges may be permanently revoked without notice.   Advanced Posting Tools   Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial No List  Return to Post  Upload Photos/Videos Choose Files from your local computer Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo and video filesizes should be less than 5MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]