For sleeved engines you can pull them with B7 (hardened) all thread and nut. Make or have made a round piece of steel to center in the bottom of the sleeve. OD has to be smaller than the ID of the hole in the block so it can pass on up through. A bar of steel for cross bar at top and some spacers to get you up above the deck of the block. If you don't have a metal lathe I find it a VERY useful tool to have. On that 70 D one tool I know you will need is a very large gear puller with fairly long legs to reach back and remove the live pto gear off the crankshaft if you are going that far and if you have live pto. Same puller will be used to remove belt pulley drive gear so you can access the clutch toggles and dogs to clean and lube them. I have a really nice one that uses a hyd. port a power and it screws onto it and can be used in either a 2 jaw or 3 jaw puller. An overhead lifting device is good to have too for the extra heavy parts on that 70D. A oxy/acetylene torch is also a MUST HAVE for old tractor work.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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