"check for an open (disconnected wire or broken wire) to the Field of the alternator. You could also have a bad regulator. Without a Field reference, the alternator "assumes" there is no voltage to your main bus"
With a broken or disconnected wire to the (rotating) field, the alternator will not charge at all.
The regulator doesn't use a "field reference" (whatever that is) to sense voltage, but rather senses the output voltage either at the output stud or nearer to the battery to make up for voltage drop in the charging wiring.
If the voltage sense wire is connected to the battery cable at a starter switch or solenoid, that's where the charging voltage needs to be checked, as the voltage at the alternator will always be at least some higher than at the point where voltage is sensed.
I mentioned checking that the voltage sense wire is intact.
The OEM Delco regulators typically had an internal setting the regulator would "default" to, if the external "sense" connection is lost, possibly around 16 Volts.
NOT sure if the cheapy generic regulators now being sold do that, or simply go wild.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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