A 1650, 1750, or 1850 would serve you well. All are simple to work on. If you can find an 1850 in decent condition for $4500, grab it, get out of there, and never look back in case the guy who sold it has second thoughts. I paid $5500 for the one I bought and figured I got a good deal. Parts are readily available for all three. We had a 4020 and a 1650 on our farm. Traction-wise the 1650 would pull anything the 4020 would on dry ground and was better in muddy conditions. Which makes sense since they weigh about the same. I'm not knocking a 4020, but they are over priced and much more difficult to work on than something like the Olivers. The hyda power/hydraul shifts are very reliable, also. All of the suggestions below are pretty good choices, too.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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