84 Ford F-150 brand new off the lot with eleven miles on the odometer, couple months later bang into third gear coming off a light, KABLEWEE! Back U-joint let go and the shaft went flying out to the side. Totally wrecked the tail housing/bearing and what ever else was in the way. Fortunately it was under warranty so FOMOCO fixed it for free. Six months later I can't go above 30mph without it shaking like crazy. So I drop it off at the dealer after hours and write them a note explaining the problem and asked if they would check the cross bearings. I called them the next afternoon to see if it was ready to be picked up. Sure they say. How much did it cost I asked. 35$ is the answer. Gee that's not bad for U-joint replacement I said. She said they didn't need to be replaced, the mechanic test drove it. I told her in the most polite but firm tone that I could muster that she had better have their mechanic take it out on the road and take it up to sixty, not just putter around the lot in first gear. She called back an hour later to let me know it would be ready the next day, my rear U-joint was shot. DUH? really? So they were going to charge me 35$ and not fix the problem after I told them what it was in my note! Interestingly enough I never had any more problems from the thing except to replace the bearings several years later. So that's my driveshaft story.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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