The first thing you need to do learn who is offering the warranty. These companies tend to go broke and disappear every 2-3 years. As the poster below said most are bad - some are even worse. Go to the shop area of the dealership and ask how much work they do under the warranty they are trying to sell you and see if it actually covers the full cost of the repair. A lot will "specify" the covered amount of a repair - new engine $2000 even though the engine is $5000.
I'd go with the Kia also. I've owned two Kia Sorento Minivans and my wife has run the wheels off of them. The first one was a 2008 with over 160K miles and besides brakes, tires and fluid changes it had one repair - the idler pulley on the engine. The current one is a 2014 (last year of the old body style) and has 85K miles - one set of front brakes, fluid changes and tires. Nothing else I've owned even comes close.
I bought the 2008 extremely cheap thinking if this Kia turns into the POS I think might be I'll still get my money back out of it in a trade. It was the exact opposite of what I feared it would be. Kia and Hyundai both made a massive step forward in quality in 2006 and 2007 model years. Now they top the charts in quality and reliability.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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