How is it that someone installed a water system that is subject to freezing in the first place? Submersible pumps with pitless adapters are immune to freezing, you just need to place the pressure tank inside the building and bury the pipes below freeze depth and there should be no problem. This reminds me of the years I lived in North Carolina: frozen pipes were a regular occurrence because contractors were too lazy to route plumbing in locations where it wouldn't freeze. Here in Michigan, where subzero temperatures are common, frozen pipes rarely occur.
I assume the water system is already installed and there's no chance of making it frost resistant (e.g. by burying the pump house below grade). At the least, the walls of the well house should be insulated; if this is done the chance of freezing will be minimized because a four-unit building will be drawing water almost 24 hours a day. And it shouldn't take much to prevent freezing; wrapping heat tape around the pump and plumbing should do the trick.
I don't recommend using light bulbs or heat lamps. They'll burn out and you won't know it until the pump freezes. A small baseboard heater will be more reliable, but hardly foolproof in the damp confines of a pump house. I'd use heat tape, either the kind with a built-in thermostat or Frostex as Jim N. suggested. Hopefully the place never gets an extended power outage in freezing temperatures.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Generators - by Chris Pratt. As a companion to the articles on three-brush and two-brush generators, it seemed fitting that we should provide our readers with a description of how a generator works in lay terms. The difficulty with all those "theory of operation" texts is that they border on principles of electricity or physics and such. Since I know nothing of either, you will have to put up with looking at the common sense side of how generators work which means we "
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