A single bottom will be easier to learn the adjustmends on than a 2 bottom as the leveling adjust ment will not be as critical. Also a plow that the tail wheel carries the back end instead of a plow that carries the tail wheel will also be easeier to adjust as one less adjustment to have to learn. Dad and I both had plowed for years and used plows that carried the tail wheel, got a different plow and used same hitch setting as always but could never get it so that tail wheel was not skiping over the ground. One day hooked to plow but drawbar was in a different setting for a previous job and no longer any tail wheel skiping, was runnimg all the time as supposed to do. So even tho we were both experanced it was something we just could not see to get the adjustment correct. Now a plow that rides on tail wheel all the time that is also one less adjustment for you to learn right off. And on level ground you should have a 66" wheel tread, center of left wheel to center of right wheel. Hilly ground go for 72" instead of the 66". Some will say set the tires at 56-60" but that gets into danderous area with that tall a tractor do to tip angle. Even if so level no danger of rolling tractor the seating angle WILL hurt your back later in life and a sore back is nothing to laff about. Your back will like you if you do that. At your age you will not think about that but get twice your age it will start showing up by hurting from setting at an angle. One wheel in furrow with the other on top of the land. And stay away from an Oliver plow. They are a good plow but for them you should to be able to adjust the hitch have a tractor with a 56" wheel tread like the W4 that is just a standard tread version of your tractor. I had the oliver plow but tried using it with the 72" wheel tread and could not get it adjusted to work correctly, Would have worked OK with a tractor with the 56" wheel tread. Hitch design. Traded it after one season on a Deere and had that plow for 30 years. Try to find a field to practice plowing on for several hours before you are ready to head to that plow day as it will take you hours to learn operation of outfit and how to set things up so the other plowers do not have to do it for you. Have seen that many a time and moldboards not clean and shiny but very rusty and soil will not slide over that rusty moldboard but just stick to it. Major embeaancement., you don't want to look like you are a dummy the moment you get to that plow day. And even if you are close enough to that plow day to drive tractor to plan on having a trailer to haul the plow as even if on rubber they do not like to be pulled on the road. In that case the plow that carries the tail wheel will be easier to load-unload than one that rides on the tail wheel. I started plowing at age 13 and 62 years ago. Use one Farmall, 5 Fords, 1 Ferguson, 1 Moline and 5 different Deeres. And both clitch lift and hydroliv lift, plows that carried the tail wheel as ones that road on it, semi mounted and 3 point hitch models. A lot for you to think about before you ever start looking for that plow. And some 3 bottom can be converted to a 2 bottom just by unbolting and rebolting in a different place. Some 2 bottom could also have that done as well to make a 1 bottom but most not.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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