You'll need a 12v test light or an analog volt meter.
Ground the test light lead or the black volt meter lead. Touch the positive battery post to be sure the light/meter is working.
Turn the ignition switch on.
You should have power to the + terminal of the coil. If no, check the wiring, ign switch, ballast resistor if equipped.
If yes, move the test light/meter to the - side of the coil. Crank the engine through and watch the light/meter.
If the light flashes, or the meter jumps every time the points open, it should be making spark at the coil tower.
If the light stays on, or the meter stays at 9-12 volts, the points are not making contact, there is a break in the wire from the coil to the points, or the distributor housing is not grounded. The housing grounds through the hold down clamp, be sure it is tight and on bare metal.
If the light does not come on, the points are not opening, the wire is shorted to ground, or the condenser is shorted internally to ground. It could also be an open coil, but you already tried a coil, so not likely. (Be sure to put the original coil back on, or be sure the coil that is on it is correct.)
Look carefully at the points and the installation. Try another condenser. All the ignition components are now imported aftermarket and very questionable quality, often bad new out of the box, or miss boxed. Check for side play in the distributor shaft. If loose, the points will not stay set.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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