Rad hoses, heater hoses, hydraulic return lines, fuel lines, air hoses etc operating at low pressure and commonly secured with hose clamps.
Your best bet is to figure out roughly how long the barbed portion of the fitting is then add 1/4 inch.
At this mark cut the hose off square using a razor knife, hacksaw, cut off wheel, butter knife, whatever.
The portion remaining on the fitting can usually be sliced with a blade or loosened with what is called a hose removal tool.
Picture an awl with the shaft bent to resemble a goose neck, works real good to break the seal.
You do not want to scratch, gouge or deform the barbed fitting or you will be replacing that as well.
If the hose is long enough to reuse after cutting you stand a pretty good chance of getting a little more life out of the hose, again these are low pressure hoses.
Thread tape on fittings generally is not required for AN, JIC, ORB, banjo, compression, ferrule ... and most others.
If the joint uses pipe thread then yes a sealant is in order.
If you know what you are doing then Teflon tape is fine.(regardless of what half a dozen are likely to argue)
If you are new to this then use a sealant compatible with the material in the system you are working on.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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