Unless it's broken up inside the plug, even then usually they can be repaired by replacing the wire terminal.
If the actual wire is still intact, not broken or burned in to, that is probably not the problem.
Easy enough to test the alternator, start it up, bring the RPM up, check the voltage across the battery. It should be up around 14 volts. If down around 12v, it's not charging.
Also check the belt tension and for wear. A simple test, try to turn the alternator fan with your thumb. It should be near impossible, or turn the engine instead of slipping. If the belt is loose and worn down into the bottom of the pulley, hard and glazed, it will need to be replaced.
If there is no charge, check for voltage at the back of the alternator. The large stud should have battery voltage at all times. The smaller 2 (a guess, not knowing the type alternator) should have voltage with the ignition on. Some alternators have a ground wire. It will usually be under an uninsulated stud, it will not have voltage.
If you still don't have charge, take the alternator off and get it tested at the auto supply. If bed they can likely match it up with an automotive application, way cheaper than going to the dealer!
Also take the battery in, have it load tested. A bad battery, having to jump start, can damage an alternator.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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