Unless it's broken up inside the plug, even then usually they can be repaired by replacing the wire terminal.
If the actual wire is still intact, not broken or burned in to, that is probably not the problem.
Easy enough to test the alternator, start it up, bring the RPM up, check the voltage across the battery. It should be up around 14 volts. If down around 12v, it's not charging.
Also check the belt tension and for wear. A simple test, try to turn the alternator fan with your thumb. It should be near impossible, or turn the engine instead of slipping. If the belt is loose and worn down into the bottom of the pulley, hard and glazed, it will need to be replaced.
If there is no charge, check for voltage at the back of the alternator. The large stud should have battery voltage at all times. The smaller 2 (a guess, not knowing the type alternator) should have voltage with the ignition on. Some alternators have a ground wire. It will usually be under an uninsulated stud, it will not have voltage.
If you still don't have charge, take the alternator off and get it tested at the auto supply. If bed they can likely match it up with an automotive application, way cheaper than going to the dealer!
Also take the battery in, have it load tested. A bad battery, having to jump start, can damage an alternator.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
... [Read Article]
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