My Mitsubishi play car had a similar idle speed control system originally. Attached to the throttle body was a cast housing with the idle speed control stepper motor and a thermal type air bypass. The thermal bypass like many thermostat type devices failed after many years and well over 100k miles. Of course it failed open so the idle speed control motor would run to full closed position and there was still too much air to keep the idle below the fuel cut RPM so it surged. Since it was in the evolution to a hot rod play car I did not really want the throttle body being heated by the coolant anyway. I made a new body for the idle speed control motor without the additional thermo air passage. Looped the coolant lines together.
Starts fine in what we get for cold weather. Rare that it gets much below 25. Plus it parks in a garage that never gets below ~50. In really cold weather the lack of the thermo air bypass might be a problem though.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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