The problem with these plugs is the design. The threads go past the threaded part of the head and allow combustion byproducts to build up and interfere with removal. They are also of a poor design that is prone to breakage. Best advice if you are going to try them yourself is do not force anything. If one starts to bind, turn it back in and work it back and forth a few times until it loosens up. Once you break one, you will probably be going to the dealer anyways.
Personally, I ALWAYS use a thread lubricant on spark plugs that go into an aluminum head. You have two different metals in contact with each other, and the plug is prone to binding or galling in the aluminum threads. I have on occasion seen the threads come out with the plug. Better safe than sorry.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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