I'm all in for replacing anything that can be accessed while in there.
By all means replace the front transmission seals. Being a 2 stage, there should be 2 seals, I would think.
While in there look all the release bearing mechanism over for wear.
Look at the flywheel surface for hot spots, glazing. Look at the flywheel starter gear for worn teeth.
If any freeze plugs on the back of the engine, now would be the time to replace them.
If the clutch kit doesn't come with an alignment tool, you'll want to find or make one. Making one is not that difficult on a lathe. It doesn't need splines, just sized to fit the ID of the splines and the pilot bearing. Trying to stab a dual clutch without an alignment tool is near impossible, and an invitation for damage to the new clutch if forced. I like to test fit the discs on the splines first, just to be sure they will go and slide freely. Some dual clutches require an initial adjustment once assembled.
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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