This thread is really getting jumbled up in Classic apparently it’s not playing well with Modern. I was not real clear but I along with others were suggesting to only connect the 12 volt jumper to the cable or post feeding only the starter motor 12 volts. So in that case while the 12 volts supplied by the jumpers are only feeding the starter to turn it if the ignition switch is turned on but not to the start position or the high amp switch for cranking is not pushed 12 volts never goes to anything but the starter. The issue come in when the 6 volt unit has a solenoid that mechanical pushes the starter drive out to engage it in the flywheel, then agreeably it can be kind of tricky. I agree jumping a 6 with a 12 volt is not ideal. But back while I was growing up on the farm we did it occasionally with out any long term problems from it that I remember. Generally we jumped right to the battery but usually had some one at the controls to hit start right away once the connection was made. Then immediately after the 6 volt unit started the cables were unhooked. Right or wrong that is what we did to get the job done. Were we lucky to not have issues, probably. As they say...don’t try this at home! I see the OP has replied that the problem was the 6 volt battery had gone bad.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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