Update. Now I am feeling a little dumb. I pulled off the oil pan and looked at the cam. The problem is with the intake-valve area for #1 cylinder. As I said before, I'd adjust the lash to .016" and rotate the engine a bit. Then would have a 1/4" lash and pushrod would fall out.
Ends up the camshaft is fine. After looking more closely, I see now the intake-valve itself is coming all the way up very fast. I never suspect this sort of thing since I did two different compression tests on this tractor. I tested it before starting after it sat for years. I also tested it after running it for awhile. Both times, compression read fine on all four cylinders. So finding an intake valve sticking like this is a surprise. Note - all clean and not rust inside either. Very clean looking.
So now I have to decide if I want to pull the head - or try to run it and see what happens? It looks like it was a problem before it had gone into "long-term" storage for 7-8 years. I guess I will pull the rocker-shaft off, and valve-spring and see if there is any visible problem on top that I doubt.
I have my own cylinder-head equipment for doing a valve-job myself. No huge big deal for a little four cylinder. Just kind of irks me since this thing tested perfect with a compression test and engine sounds pretty good - except when the pushrod falls out of place.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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