"Someone suggested coils so I replaced that as old one was due for change."
(I'd better not comment on that.)
Two things...
1.) Check for spark cold with and adjustable gap spark tester and note how far the spark will jump, then check again when it's screwing up.
2.) IF you can do this safely, with the engine cold, with a suitable container in hand, remove the bowl drain plug from the carburetor.
There should be a fast flow of gas as the float bowl empties, than a slower, but steady flow as the float drops and the inlet valve opens and fuel from the tank flows through the carburetor inlet valve. The flow has to be adequate to sustain the engine under load.
(I don't think this tractor has a fuel pump, if it does, post back for more details.)
Also, does your specific carburetor have an electric shutoff solenoid on the main jet?
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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