"Someone suggested coils so I replaced that as old one was due for change."
(I'd better not comment on that.)
Two things...
1.) Check for spark cold with and adjustable gap spark tester and note how far the spark will jump, then check again when it's screwing up.
2.) IF you can do this safely, with the engine cold, with a suitable container in hand, remove the bowl drain plug from the carburetor.
There should be a fast flow of gas as the float bowl empties, than a slower, but steady flow as the float drops and the inlet valve opens and fuel from the tank flows through the carburetor inlet valve. The flow has to be adequate to sustain the engine under load.
(I don't think this tractor has a fuel pump, if it does, post back for more details.)
Also, does your specific carburetor have an electric shutoff solenoid on the main jet?
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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