Have you tried removing the drain plug in the carb bowl to see if it really is empty?
Try that, see how much flow you have.
If no flow, disconnect the line from the carb, see if there is flow there.
If good flow to the carb, there may be a screen in the carb inlet fitting that is clogged, something blocking the needle valve, the float drop set too high.
If no flow from the line at the carb, there is a problem at the tank valve. I don't know what type tank valve you have, but it shouldn't have a blocked port. I would try to get the correct valve. A good valve will have a screen standing up inside the tank to protect the system from any future rust or anything that may get in the tank.
I doubt a check valve to let air in will work, I would be worried about it failing to seal and dripping gas on a hot engine!
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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