Things look pretty normal. When cleaned to metal only, you will be able to see the wear. running loose will destroy the bearings, so be prepared for that. There are two terms that apply: spalling, and brenelling. Search for roller bearing spalling, and roller bearing brenelling in google images. Spalling is where the surface has flaked away from its foundation and left a pit, or pits. Brenelling is indentation of the surface from foreign material getting between the rollers and the races. (probably from spalled flakes!). Rubbing from being crooked also applies.and may be found on your bearings. Each race will have a code number on it stamped into the edge. these are industry standard numbers and allow you to buy new parts at a store like Motion Industries. The seal may be standard, or may be AC only, check with the bearing company. To remove the outer raced, you will need a long punch 10 inches long with a 1/4" tip. Use this to punch out the outer races from the hub. From inside out, you will find 2 slots that allow you to put a punch tip on the race. Alternate between these two slots working the race out of the hub. Then the other race. clean again. Put the new races into their recess, aiming the correct way (big size out on each). Use the old race as a driver with a brass hammer (you needed one any way) they will seat with a distinct sound change in the event. Grease up the inside till it looks like the one you took off using real wheel bearing grease (stringy goo acts like warm mozzarella)
Repack the bearings by taking a egg sized plop of wheel bearing grease and place it in the palm of your non primary hand. Holding the cone and roller (inside assembly with the rollers) so the big side is down, smish grease into the spaces between the rollers by pressing the assembly into the edge of the plop of grease and pushing that little scoop against your palm. Repeat and move around the bearing for 5 minutes or so till grease comes out the top side of each space between rollers. Messy, but satisfying. After the grease has squirted out all around, use more grease till it looks kinda like the picture you posted. Lay it aside and do the other one. Put the big bearing into the hub facing so the small end in inward, then put the seal into the hub using the brass hammer. Now coat the spindle with WB grease to look like your old one. take the hub and slide it on the spindle till it stops. Make sure the inner cone and roller is seated on the shaft. Pick up the outer bearing cone and roller and insert it, Follow that with one washer (should have a tab sticking out to the inside that goes in a slot in the threads. Put the nut on and tighten it while pushing the hub farther on. do not just crank it tighter, work the parts to assure it is going together, the clearances are tight. When you have the nut just barely tighter than finger tight, look at the back side of the flange to see if it is close to as far as it was running before. now tighten the nut a little more (about the weight of your new adjustable wrench sticking out sideways. remove the wrench, and whack the flange with the brass hammer toward farther on, and around the sides some. this seats everything and probably loosened the nut. Use the wrench as above and allow that torque of the hanging wrench weight to be your guide. Look at the cotter pin hole and you may tighten the nut only to the next aligned hole if needed, (no backing up!), apply the cotter pin, and bend so it does not scrape the new cap. Find a new dust cap and apply it to the hub. Check the tightness of the nut after a few days of driving it around. (no tighter than the weight of that wrench) Jim
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